Moisturizer

"Kumva" kofunikira kwambiri kwa ukalamba wa khungu ndikouma, komwe kumawonetsedwa ndi chinyezi chochepa komanso kusowa kwa mphamvu yosunga chinyezi. Khungu limakhala lonyezimira, lovuta komanso lotupa. Chinthu cha hygroscopic kwambiri pofuna kubwezeretsa chinyezi cha khungu ndikupewa kuuma chimatchedwa humectant. The khungu moisturizing limagwirira, mmodzi ndi mayamwidwe chinyezi; china ndi chotchinga chotchinga (chitetezo chosanjikiza) chomwe chimalepheretsa chinyezi chamkati kuti chisawonongeke. Kulowa kwa chinyezi cha chotchinga ichi pamene ntchito yake ndi yachibadwa ndi 2.9g / (m2 h-1) ± 1.9g / ( m2 h-1), ndipo ikatayika kwathunthu, ndi 229g / ( m2 h-1) ± 81g/(m2 h-1), kusonyeza kuti chotchinga chosanjikiza ndi chofunika kwambiri.

Malingana ndi njira yowonongeka, mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zowonongeka zomwe zimakhala ndi zotsatira zabwino zapangidwa. Ma humectants omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri amaphatikizapo polyols, amides, lactic acid ndi sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, collagen, zotumphukira za chitin ndi zina zotero.

(1) Ma polyols
Glycerin ndi madzi okoma pang'ono viscous, miscible m'madzi, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl mowa, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ndi Phenol ndi zinthu zina. Glycerin ndi chinthu chofunikira kwambiri chonyowetsa chamtundu wa O/W-mtundu wa emulsification system muzodzola. Ndiwofunikanso zopangira mafuta odzola. Itha kugwiritsidwanso ntchito ngati moisturizer yamafuta okhala ndi ufa, omwe amakhala ndi zofewa komanso zopaka mafuta pakhungu. Kuonjezera apo, glycerin imagwiritsidwanso ntchito kwambiri mu mankhwala otsukira mano ndi mafuta odzola a hydrophilic, komanso ndi gawo lofunika kwambiri la mankhwala a hydrogel.
Propylene glycol ndi madzi opanda mtundu, owoneka bwino, owoneka pang'ono, amadzimadzi. Imasungunuka m'madzi, acetone, ethyl acetate ndi chloroform, ndipo imasungunuka mu mowa ndi ether. Propylene glycol imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri muzodzola. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chonyowetsa ndi moisturizer pazinthu zosiyanasiyana za emulsified ndi zinthu zamadzimadzi. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chofewa komanso chonyowa pamankhwala otsukira mano akaphatikizidwa ndi glycerol ndi sorbitol. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chowongolera chinyezi muzinthu za utoto wa tsitsi.
1,3-Butanediol ndi madzi a viscous opanda mtundu komanso opanda fungo omwe amasunga bwino chinyezi, amatha kuyamwa madzi ofanana ndi 12.5% ​​(RH50%) kapena 38.5% (RH80%) ya misa yake., Osakwiya kwambiri kuposa glycerin ndi propylene glycol. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati moisturizer mu lotions, creams, lotions ndi mankhwala otsukira mano. Kuphatikiza apo, 1,3-butanediol imakhala ndi antibacterial effect. Sorbitol ndi ufa wa crystalline woyera wopangidwa kuchokera ku shuga ngati zopangira. Ili ndi kukoma kokoma pang'ono. Sorbitol imasungunuka mosavuta m'madzi, imasungunuka pang'ono mu ethanol, acetic acid, phenol ndi acetamide, koma osasungunuka mu zosungunulira zina. Sorbitol ili ndi hygroscopicity yabwino, chitetezo, komanso kukhazikika kwamankhwala. Zakhala zikugwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri m'munda wamankhwala a tsiku ndi tsiku. Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zopangira zopangira zopanda ma ionic komanso zitha kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati zonona muzotsukira m'mano ndi zodzoladzola.
Polyethylene glycol ndi polima wosungunuka m'madzi wokonzedwa ndi kuwonjezera pang'onopang'ono kwa ethylene oxide ndi madzi kapena ethylene glycol. Itha kusungunukanso mu zosungunulira zamphamvu kwambiri za polar organic ndipo imakhala ndi masikelo otsika mpaka apakatikati. Mtundu wa mankhwalawo ukhoza kugwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chopangira chosungunuka m'madzi cha colloidal muzodzola zosiyanasiyana. Polyethylene glycol imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri m'makampani opanga zodzoladzola ndi zamankhwala chifukwa cha zinthu zake zabwino kwambiri monga kusungunuka kwamadzi, kusakhazikika kwa thupi, kufatsa, kutsekemera, kunyowetsa khungu, komanso kufewa. Low molecular weight polyethylene glycol amatha kuyamwa ndi kusunga madzi kuchokera mumlengalenga, ndipo ndi pulasitiki ndipo angagwiritsidwe ntchito ngati humectant; pamene kulemera kwa maselo kumawonjezeka, hygroscopicity yake imatsika kwambiri. High molecular weight polyethylene glycol angagwiritsidwe ntchito kwambiri tsiku lililonse mankhwala, mankhwala, nsalu, papermaking ndi mafakitale ena monga lubricant kapena softener.

(2) Lactic acid ndi sodium lactate
Lactic acid ndi organic acid yomwe imapezeka kwambiri m'chilengedwe. Ndilo chomaliza mu metabolism ya anaerobic zamoyo. Ndizotetezeka komanso zopanda poizoni. Lactic acid ndiyenso asidi wosungunuka m'madzi muzinthu zachilengedwe zonyowa (NMF) za epidermis yamunthu, ndipo zili pafupifupi 12%. Lactic acid ndi lactate zimakhudza kapangidwe kazinthu zokhala ndi mapuloteni, ndipo zimakhala ndi pulasitiki komanso kufewetsa kwa mapuloteni. Chifukwa chake, lactic acid ndi sodium lactate zimatha kupangitsa khungu kukhala lofewa, kutupa ndikuwonjezera kutha. Ndi acidifier yabwino mu zodzoladzola zosamalira khungu. Gulu la carboxyl la molekyulu ya lactic acid lili ndi mgwirizano wabwino wa tsitsi ndi khungu. Sodium lactate ndi moisturizer yothandiza kwambiri, ndipo mphamvu yake yonyowa imakhala yamphamvu kuposa zokometsera zachikhalidwe monga glycerin. Lactic acid ndi sodium lactate amapanga njira yotchinga yomwe imatha kusintha pH ya khungu. Mu zodzoladzola, lactic acid ndi sodium lactate amagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka ngati zofewa ndi khungu kapena tsitsi zofewetsa, acidifiers kusintha pH, mafuta odzola ndi mafuta odzola pakhungu, shamposi ndi conditioners chisamaliro tsitsi ndi mankhwala ena chisamaliro tsitsi. Itha kugwiritsidwanso ntchito pometa zinthu ndi zotsukira.

(3) Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na mwachidule) ndi chinthu chowola chamagulu a fibroin mu epidermal granular layer. Zomwe zili pakhungu lachilengedwe lonyowa ndi pafupifupi 12%. Ntchito yake yakuthupi ndikupangitsa kuti stratum corneum yapakhungu ikhale yofewa. Zomwe zimachepetsedwa za sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate mu stratum corneum zimatha kupangitsa khungu kukhala louma komanso louma. Commercial sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ndi njira yopanda mtundu, yopanda fungo, yowoneka bwino yamadzi amchere pang'ono, ndipo hygroscopicity yake ndi yapamwamba kwambiri kuposa ya glycerin, propylene glycol, ndi sorbitol. Pamene chinyezi chachibale ndi 65%, hygroscopicity ndi yokwera 56% pambuyo pa masiku 20, ndipo hygroscopicity imatha kufika 60% pambuyo pa masiku 30; ndipo pansi pazimenezi, hygroscopicity ya glycerin, propylene glycol, ndi sorbitol ndi 40% pambuyo pa masiku 30. 30%, 10%. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate amagwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka ngati humectant ndi conditioner, amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu mafuta odzola, shrink lotions, creams, lotions, komanso amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu mankhwala otsukira mano ndi shampoos.

(4) Hyaluronic acid
Ndipo asidi hyaluronic ndi woyera amorphous olimba yotengedwa zimakhala nyama. Ndi disaccharide yobwereza unit ya (1→ 3) -2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D(1→4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid Polima yopangidwa ili ndi molekyulu ya 200,000 mpaka 1 miliyoni. Hyaluronic acid ndi moisturizer yachilengedwe yazachilengedwe yokhala ndi zonyowa zolimba, zotetezeka komanso zopanda poizoni, popanda kukwiyitsa khungu la munthu. Hyaluronic acid imasungunuka m'madzi koma osasungunuka mu zosungunulira za organic. Chifukwa cha kutambasula ndi kutupa kwa mapangidwe a maselo mu njira yake yamadzimadzi, imakhalabe ndi kukhuthala kwakukulu pamagulu otsika, ndipo imatha kumanga madzi ochulukirapo, kotero imakhala ndi zinthu zabwino kwambiri zonyowa, kutsekemera kwakukulu komanso kutsekemera kwakukulu.
Hyaluronic acid panopa ndi mtundu wa moisturizer ndi ntchito kwambiri mu zodzoladzola. Mu zodzoladzola, zimatha kupereka moisturizing pakhungu, kupanga khungu zotanuka ndi kusalala, ndi kuchedwetsa kukalamba khungu. Zambiri mwazinthu zamakampani za hydrogel zimakhala ndi hyaluronic acid kapena zimagwiritsidwa ntchito mophatikizana nazo, ndipo apeza mayankho abwino atadziwitsidwa pamsika.

(5) Hydrolyzed collagen
Collagen imatchedwanso mapuloteni a glial. Ndi mapuloteni oyera a fibrous omwe amapanga khungu la nyama, cartilage, tendons, mafupa, mitsempha ya magazi, cornea ndi zina. Nthawi zambiri imakhala yoposa 30% ya mapuloteni onse a nyama. Ndi mu nkhani youma khungu ndi dermal minofu. Collagen amawerengera pafupifupi 90%.
Collagen ndiye chigawo choyambirira cha mapuloteni omwe amapanga khungu la nyama ndi minofu. Zimagwirizana bwino ndi khungu ndi tsitsi. Khungu ndi tsitsi zimayamwitsa bwino, zomwe zimalola kuti zilowe mkati mwa tsitsi, ndi zina zotero, kusonyeza Kugwirizana kwabwino ndi mphamvu. Ndipo pambuyo pa hydrolysis, unyolo wa polypeptide wa kolajeni uli ndi magulu a hydrophilic monga amino, carboxyl ndi hydroxyl, omwe amatha kuwonetsa kusungidwa bwino kwa chinyezi pakhungu. Hydrolyzed collagen imathandizanso kuchepetsa mawanga pakhungu ndikuchotsa makwinya obwera chifukwa cha kuwala kwa ultraviolet. Chifukwa chake, gawo la hydrolyzed collagen limawonetsedwa makamaka pakunyowetsa, kuyanjana, kuyera kwa ma freckle, anti-kukalamba ndi zina zotero. M'magulu a nyama, collagen ndi chinthu chomwe sichisungunuka m'madzi, koma chimakhala ndi mphamvu yomanga madzi. The hydrolysis wa kolajeni akhoza kuchitidwa mwa zochita za asidi, zamchere kapena enzyme, ndi sungunuka hydrolyzed kolajeni akhoza analandira, amene chimagwiritsidwa ntchito zodzoladzola ndi mankhwala kukongola mankhwala.

Mitundu ina ya ma humectants ndi chitin ndi zotumphukira zake, glucose ester humectants, ndi zomera za humectants monga aloe ndi algae.